Patek Philippe unveils a remarkable line-up of 17 new watch models at the prestigious Watches and Wonders 2023 event. With this release, Patek Philippe further expands its extensive collection, offering watch enthusiasts an even wider array of options
Some might deem it an ambitious endeavour, but according to Thierry Stern, the president of the family-owned manufacturer, Patek Philippe’s extensive range of collections is purposeful. Stern explains: “Why does Patek Philippe offer so many different collections? Because each of them possesses its distinct character and enables us to innovate and express ourselves uniquely.”
Watch enthusiasts were left thoroughly satisfied with the novelties presented, which cover everything from Grand Complications to sporty models, as well as those that have already earned a legendary status in the realm of horological design. Patek Philippe consistently maintains a vast selection of watches for both men and women, catering to every market segment.
The manufacturer takes meticulous care to ensure a balanced evolution of its approximately 150 references, all meticulously crafted in small series, with production numbers ranging from around 10 pieces to a few hundred. The 17 new pieces showcased at the Watches and Wonders 2023 salon exemplify this commitment to balance and innovation.
With such an outstanding collection, we invite you to discover the epitome of style, sophistication, and timepiece excellence.
Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime
Considered one of the most complicated wrist watches to produce, it was unveiled at the manufacturer’s 175th anniversary in 2014 (limited-series Reference 5175). In 2016, the timepiece was launched in a white gold case with black-and-white dials. In 2019, two blue opaline dials (6300G-010) made their appearance. This year, a two-tone version in white and rose gold struck a chord among collectors.
This two-tone version has a reversible double-sided white gold case, rose gold pushers, crown, minute repeater slide piece, and swivel links. In harmony with these colours, the watch is specially equipped with two gold dials with an opaline brown shade, a hand-guilloche hobnail pattern on the time side, as well as a two-tone patinated dark chestnut alligator leather strap with a two-tone fold-over clasp.
Inside the case, the timepiece holds 20 complications, some of which are the striking mechanism that features three gongs and five chiming modes: grande sonnerie, petite sonnerie, minute-repeater and two patented world exclusives — an alarm sounding a programmed time and a date-repeater striking the date at will. The manually wound calibre 300 GS AL 36-750 QIS FUS IRM also powers a perpetual calendar with a four-digit year display.
Reference 6300GR-001 is accompanied by white gold cufflinks, a brown opaline centre adorned with a hand-guilloche hobnail pattern, and a rose gold Calatrava cross.
See also: Huawei helps accelerate ICT talent cultivation for mutual benefits in intelligent education
Grand Complication
In one watch lies five of the most sought-after complications by connoisseurs: a minute repeater, a tourbillon, a perpetual calendar with retrograde date display and a moon-phase indication. The brilliant minds at the Manufacturer have created a new version with a platinum case, a sapphire crystal dial with blue metallisation, and a black-gradient rim.
It provides a subtly transparent glimpse of the mechanical heart of the watch, in particular the date and moon-phase disks, while ensuring excellent legibility of the many dial indications. The retrograde date display and the day, month and leap-year cycle aperture frames take the form of a one-piece white gold applique integrated into a cut-out in the sapphire dial, with an onyx inlay for the date. The time is marked off by white gold faceted dauphine hands and round baton-type hour markers delicately applied to the extremely thin (0.6 mm) sapphire dial, which requires great skill.
Each timepiece is meticulously crafted with great care, and this particular model bears the prestigious Patek Philippe Seal, a testament to its exceptional quality. Equipped with a tourbillon and manually wound R TO 27 PS QR calibre, this watch guarantees remarkable accuracy, with a maximum daily deviation of –2 to +1 seconds.
One can marvel at the intricate inner workings of the timepiece through the transparent sapphire crystal caseback, providing a captivating view of the movement. Alternatively, you can replace it with a solid platinum caseback, adding a touch of elegance and versatility to the design.
This new model is also enhanced by a navy blue embossed calfskin strap with a fabric pattern, contrasting cream-coloured stitching and a platinum fold-over clasp to give it a modern look.
See also: Incubating technology projects to foster an inclusive and sustainable Smart Nation 2.0
Minute repeater with “cathedral” gongs
The minute repeater with “cathedral” gongs Reference 5178 was launched in 2017 in a version combining a white gold case with a cream enamel dial (5178G-001). Today, Patek Philippe gives this Grand Complication a new face. The white gold dial plate is entirely hand-guilloche with a swirling pattern creating a play on depth and light effects.
Next, a coating of translucent blue enamel reveals the underlying decoration based on the ancient Rare Handcrafts technique known as flinqué enamel — a fresh illustration of Patek Philippe’s dial-making expertise. Hand-applied white gold Breguet numerals indicate this — a process requiring great dexterity to avoid damaging the enamel — and by Breguet hands, also in white gold.
The self-winding calibre R 27 PS, with an off-centre mini-rotor in 22K gold, is distinguished by its slenderness (5.05 mm), endowing the case with great elegance. Its two “cathedral” gongs, about twice as long as traditional gongs, give the minute repeater a particularly rich and deep sound. This sophisticated mechanism and its refined finish are visible through a transparent sapphire crystal caseback, interchangeable with a solid white gold caseback (delivered with the watch).
The new reference 5178G-012 comes with two interchangeable straps — one in shiny peacock blue alligator leather with cream stitching; the other in shiny orange alligator leather with blue stitching — both secured by a white gold fold-over clasp.
It features an entirely polished white gold case and replaces Reference 5178G-001 in the current collection. Patek Philippe also offers a ladies’ minute repeater in white gold with a flinqué blue enamel dial decoration, diamond setting and self-winding R 27 PS calibre with two traditional gongs (7040/250G-001).
World Time Minute Repeater
The very first edition of this timepiece was introduced to the world at the 2017 Patek Philippe Grand Exhibition in New York (5531R-010). In 2018, the World Time Minute Repeater joined the current collection in a rose gold version with a cloisonné enamel dial centre featuring a new Grand Feu cloisonné enamel pattern depicting one of the famous steamships of the Belle Époque fleet still sailing on Lake Geneva today.
The outcome is a miniature masterpiece of Rare Handcrafts, wherein skilled artisans employed a palette of 20 translucent and opalescent enamel colours. The timepiece’s association with Lake Geneva is emphasised by replacing the city disk’s Paris name with Geneva, accompanied by cartouches that enhance readability. The white gold 24-hour disk is divided into distinct zones for tracking day and night. Notably, the skeletonised white gold hour hand stands out with its unique design, inspired by the graceful form of the “Southern Cross” constellation.
Introducing the groundbreaking first-ever minute repeater that consistently chimes the local time, specifically, the time of the selected time zone indicated by the central hands at 12 o’clock. This extraordinary timepiece houses the exceptional R 27 HU calibre, distinguished by its unique and patented construction. The two-minute repeater gongs are not attached to the movement’s baseplate but directly to the caseband, optimising the sound quality to an unparalleled level.
In a testament to its sophisticated engineering, the watch features a self-winding system with a 22K gold mini-rotor seamlessly integrated into the movement. Despite its intricate complexity, this ingenious design allows the timepiece to maintain an impressively slim profile.
The new Reference 5531G-001 has a shiny blue-green alligator leather strap with a white gold fold-over clasp. It replaces Reference 5531R-012 in rose gold.
Calatrava
At Watches and Wonders 2023, the Calatrava appeared in a daring shade of purple for the dial and a rose gold case. The manufacturer is enriching its range of elegant watches for ladies with a new rose gold version decked out in purple, an original and refined colour perfectly matching the warm nuances of the precious metal.
The production process for the domed dial involves meticulous and time-consuming craftsmanship. A concentric wave pattern adorns the underlying base, which undergoes more than fifty layers of translucent purple lacquer. This intricate technique creates a captivating sense of depth, where the rose-gilt powdered arrow-shaped hour markers and the faceted rose gold dauphine hands appear to float gracefully. The dial’s beautiful shade complements the satin-finished purple calfskin strap, secured with a rose gold prong buckle.
Enhancing the dial’s allure, the bezel boasts 76 round internally flawless Top Wesselton diamonds (0.55ct). It beautifully highlights the embossed radiating pattern of the dial while the entire case exudes a polished finish.
The ultra-thin self-winding 240 calibre powers this timepiece, featuring an off-centre 22K gold mini-rotor. This remarkable movement enables the watch to maintain a slender case profile of just 7.4mm. The movement’s exceptional design and exquisite finishing, adhering to the stringent criteria of the Patek Philippe Seal, can be admired through the transparent sapphire caseback.