A Chinese industry association urged international companies to use cotton produced in Xinjiang after the head of Uniqlo’s parent said the fashion retailer doesn’t source fibre from the region.
Tadashi Yanai, CEO of Japan’s Fast Retailing, made the remark last week in an interview with the BBC, which led to calls on Chinese social media for a boycott of Uniqlo.
The US has restricted trade on goods made in Xinjiang on concerns over forced labour, a claim disputed by China.
“We hope international brands like Uniqlo can give Xinjiang cotton full respect and trust,” and resume its use to maintain the development of the global textile industry, the Xinjiang Uighur Autonomous Region’s Cotton Association said in a statement on its official WeChat account on Thursday.
China is the world’s top cotton consumer and producer, with more than 90% of its output coming from Xinjiang. The Asian nation is also the biggest textile exporter, but it faces increasing competition from neighboring countries such as Bangladesh and Vietnam due to rising production costs.
Other global companies have been caught up in controversy relating to Xinjiang. H&M faced a nationalistic backlash in 2021 after a decision to stop using cotton from the region, while more recently, China said it would investigate US apparel maker PVH for suspected boycotting Xinjiang cotton.
See also: Uniqlo owner Fast Retailing watching for China boycott after Xinjiang remarks
PVH has cooperated fully with China’s Ministry of Commerce, CEO Stefan Larsson said on an earnings call on Thursday, adding that it’s not yet known when the investigation will be concluded.
The probe could result in fines and restrict business activities of PVH, the parent of fashion brands Tommy Hilfiger and Calvin Klein, which have a big retail presence in China.
For Uniqlo, a Fast Retailing spokesperson told Bloomberg News on Nov 30 that the company was “watching the situation carefully”.
