Loewe
The exploration of class and opulence is depicted through various metaphors in the collection: an Etonian morning suit symbolising aristocracy, mosaic dog motifs adorning accessories and garments, wooden carvings transformed into coat collars, and floral tapestries from grand drawing rooms intricately woven onto dresses and printed onto trousers. The use of caviar beading extends beyond clothing to embellish biker boots and Squeeze bags, adding a touch of luxury to everyday items. Tailoring and couture intersect, blending masculine and feminine elements seamlessly in faultless jackets paired with flowing slacks, sculptural short dresses complementing neckties, and a mix of straight cuts and draping techniques.
Ferragamo
Designer Maximilian Davis delves into the spirit of the 1920s, a time characterised by flowing fabrics, dropped waistlines, and relaxed cuts. It’s a nod to an era marked by new-found freedom, perhaps mirroring the sentiment of emerging from the constraints of Covid-19. Amidst lacquered organdie dresses and delicately feminine sheer fabrics adorned with feathers and sequinned embroideries, Davis draws inspiration from women who embraced masculine styles such as Joan Crawford and Greta Garbo. This influence is evident in the collection’s broad shoulders, heavy wools, and supple leathers.
Dolce & Gabbana
Women will fall in love with the precision tailoring, elegant silhouettes, and timeless black-and-white ensembles crafted from impeccable fabrics. The collection sends a clear message: designers have artfully intertwined the imagery of ancient Sicily, blending elements of masculinity and femininity with delicate lace, sheer fabrics, undergarments, and textured stockings. These essential pieces come together to offer a fresh interpretation of the brand’s DNA, inviting us to explore its heritage in a new light.
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Valentino
In the Valentino Le Noir collection, creative director Pierpaolo Piccioli reimagines Valentino through the colour black. Here, black isn’t merely an absence of colour but a rich spectrum of shades, each subtly distinct. It’s a celebration of the everyday, elevated to new heights, as black becomes a canvas for reinterpreting Valentino’s iconic elements: rosettes, ruffles, embroideries, and lace. The familiar codes of Valentino are transformed into chiaroscuro, with volants and plissé taking on abstract forms, and tailoring techniques lending dresses an unexpected strength.
Prada
Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons weave fragments of history into their exploration of beauty, creating a contemporary narrative steeped in memories. Drawing from the past as a source of inspiration, they utilise it as a tool for innovation, endeavouring to forge something entirely new. The collection is filled with biker jackets, bomber jackets and knitwear; skirts become a canvas of fabric, juxtaposing delicate silk with the robustness of tailoring wool. The silhouette is refined and elongated, characterised by an exaggerated verticality that adds to the collection’s modern allure. Through this fusion of past and present, Prada and Simons redefine notions of beauty, crafting a vision that is both timeless and forward-thinking.
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Acne Studios
The Fall/Winter 2024 women’s collection embraces a rich palette dominated by black and dark brown, underscored by neutral tones infused with bold biker accents in orange, green, and blue emerging from vibrant prints. The collection delves deep into the realm of tailoring, presenting sharply cut and streamlined garments that exude precision and elegance. Meanwhile, “lampshade” dresses push the boundaries with mesh and boning, stretching the limits of conventional design. These avant-garde creations almost mimic the intricate underpinnings of couture dresses, boldly blurring the lines between inner structure and outerwear.
