Jackets, coats and scarves might make for a stunning ensemble in fashion magazines, but here in the tropics, where daily highs stay in the mid-30s all year round, layering up can feel like building a sauna right up against one’s skin. Cool and suave? Try hot, sticky and uncomfortable.
Sweltering and humid as Singapore’s climate may be, there are still ways to get the polished look that comes with layering. With a little bit of thought into what works best for the city-state’s weather, even the sweatiest of style lovers can get the most out of a multi-tiered outfit. Read on for Options’ best tips and tricks for getting a layered look down, as well as some of our top picks to help beat the heat.
New ways to layer
Though we often associate layering with pools of fabric with long sleeves and long trousers, a layered outfit doesn’t always have to have pools of fabric hanging off the body. It doesn’t hurt to show a little skin with sleeveless items and shorts — such ensembles not only keep things cool, but also make for a more interesting look overall.
Sweater vests are one option that can go both dressy and casual. A grey rendition from Dior’s winter 2024 collection ($2,250) comes in an oversized fit that’s perfect for pairing with a plain white T-shirt on a chill day out. The slouchy cut and wide V-neck also means it can be taken off easily if it ever gets too hot.
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Pieces with integrated layers add visual interest to an outfit while taking the guesswork out of which items go well with which. Among Fendi’s latest releases is a grey polo tee ($2,250), which comes with a black sleeveless layer on top for a youthful yet put-together aesthetic.
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For something a little more formal, we like Alexander McQueen’s harness shirt ($1,325), released in its pre-autumn/winter 2024 collection. The layered effect goes all around, too — the harness straps curve around the shirt, forming a pseudo-racer back behind.
It’s also important to make each layer count — turning up the volume means fewer pieces are needed to achieve a sufficiently complex look. Thom Browne’s two-toned denim jacket (EUR 2,010), for instance, is a smorgasbord of yummy details that let the eye dance, without making too bold of a statement. The subtle contrast of grey hues, topstitching and metallic buttons means this piece stands out on its own, without the need for additional bells and whistles.
Easy breezy
When it comes to building a layered look in a hot environment, fabric choice is perhaps the most crucial factor. Take a close look at those often-forgotten care labels the next time you’re out shopping. Found at the left-hand side seam of most clothing items — or tucked inside a pocket for jackets and coats — these labels show important information about a garment, including the materials it’s made of.
Look out for lightweight, natural fabrics, which generally have better breathability than their heavyweight and synthetic counterparts. One tropical-region staple is linen, which has become a classic in hotter climates for its porosity and airiness. The flax-based fabric also often comes in a loose weave, meaning it has better breathability.
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For a layered menswear look, we like the Irish linen two-piece suit by Drake’s, available in a range of colours from classic navy to beige and olive. Linen is not always considered an office-appropriate fabric, thanks to its propensity for creasing — but it is usually kosher in Singapore, where everyone knows how punishing the weather can be, especially in the day. In this suit, Drake’s has gone with an unlined construction for the jacket ($2,450) and half-lined for the trousers ($1,000), meaning there’s less fabric to trap heat and moisture.
A similar fabric to consider is seersucker, a puckered material that’s usually made of cotton, but can sometimes contain other materials. The rippled surface makes it lift ever so slightly away from the skin, allowing for better airflow. Dunhill’s Cavendish wool silk seersucker jacket ($3,089) and matching trousers ($1,047) are a good dressy option; the subtle puckering of the seersucker in blue takes it from a traditionally daywear fabric to something reminiscent of a pinstripe.
Of course, no layered look is complete without an undershirt. Cotton makes a good material here, particularly Supima cotton, which is made from extra-long fibres for better softness and smoothness on the skin — no more itching thanks to an overly hot, scratchy tank top. An old favourite is the Brooks Brothers’ Supima cotton crew-neck T-shirt ($120 for a pack of three); this plain white tee is also treated with Ultra-Fresh, which keeps clothes clean by inhibiting microbial and fungal growth.
Keep it light
Besides fabric, the actual construction of a piece of clothing has a huge impact on how well it wears in a warm environment. The key is to stave off the bulk; just as you’d want to pile things on when it gets cold, you will also want to pull things off once the mercury rises.
The immediate problem, then, is that most jackets and coats come with full linings, and some even have padding. Although these serve important functions — such as reinforcing and protecting the main textile, as well as making the piece easier to put on and remove — the additional fabric means more heat trapped between layers. Many linings and paddings are also made with materials that tend to run hot, such as silk and polyester.
Swapping a fully lined garment out for a partially lined or unlined one and going for unpadded pieces can make a world of difference. Such items are usually less structured, but that’s not necessarily a bad thing, with relaxed looks continuing to dominate the menswear scene.
Among our favourites in this class of casual outerwear is Loro Piana’s Kora jacket (EUR 2,300 or $3,287), rendered in a textured cotton fabric. There’s an air of elevated workwear in this piece, which features four patch pockets. We imagine it’d work well in a weekend outfit, or even for days in the office when all you have on the agenda is an informal coffee chat.
If you prefer a more tailored look to your clothes, unlined clothing might feel a little baggy or soft for your taste. Keep an eye out for design features that help create a closer fit, such as side adjusters. From Berluti’s summer collection this year, we have a safari jacket ($4,550) that is similarly unlined; despite the lack of structure, the piece remains fitted, thanks to a drawstring waist.
Even for more formal ensembles, it is possible to incorporate lighter pieces; we like Boglioli’s knitted jersey double-breasted K-Jacket (EUR 1,000), which combines an unstructured silhouette with elements from classic suiting, from the brand’s autumn/winter 2024 collection. Though the wool-cotton blended fabric might lead one to believe this is a jacket meant for warmer weather, both are natural fibres that are good at conducting heat away from the body when temperatures go up.
