At Watches and Wonders, Patek Philippe showcased several stunning timepieces that captivated the attendees, with each of us having our own favourite. Our top pick is the World Time Reference 5330G-001, featuring an elegant blue-grey strap reminiscent of denim. Another standout is the Golden Ellipse Reference 5738/1R-001, which brings us back to the 1970s with its chain bracelet and a bold black dial.
World Time Reference 5330G-001
The idea of denim usually evokes a sense of roughness, but the strap on this timepiece is soft and smooth as it is crafted from calfskin embossed with a denim pattern. The blue-grey strap with white hand-stitching beautifully complements the dial colour and is secured by a fold-over clasp in white gold.
Beyond its aesthetic attributes, what sets this watch apart is its newly developed movement, the self-winding and 240 HU C calibre, which incorporates a mechanism with an innovative differential system. This system allows for synchronising the date display with the local time and for automatically adjusting the date whenever the time zone is corrected. This adjustment includes both advancing and resetting the date as needed.
The watch boasts a soothing opaline blue-grey shade that covers the dial with a carbon-patterned centre, showcasing the date on the silvery bevelled flange using a red-tipped central glass hand — Patek Philippe’s first glass hand design. Additionally, a red dot positioned between Auckland and Midway indicates the date-change line on the city disk. The 24-hour disk is divided into day and night zones, distinguished by either a silvery or blue-grey background and by the sun and moon symbols.
For the frequent traveller, you can set the local time of your selected time zone at 12 o’clock with the faceted Dauphine-type hands and applied faceted baton-type hour-markers in white gold with a white luminescent coating. With the mechanism patented in 1999, you can simultaneously correct all World Time displays — including the date — in one-hour increments simply by pressing the pusher at 10 o’clock.
The World Time Reference 5330G-001 first appeared at the Patek Philippe grand exhibition “Watch Art” held in Tokyo in June 2023. The timepiece is now part of Patek Philippe’s regular collection with the proud distinction of holding a patented world first: a date display synchronised with local time — that is, the time in the time zone selected at the 12 o’clock position on the city disk and indicated by the centre hands.
The history of this watch extends far beyond 2023, harking back to the 1930s when the allure of travel was at its peak with transatlantic flights making waves. Inspired by the innovation of Genevan master watchmaker Louis Cottier, the iconic Patek Philippe World Time timepiece has undergone continuous technical enhancements.
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Since the early 1950s, this watch function has allowed users to simultaneously track time across all 24 time zones using mobile city and 24-hour disks, alongside a local-time display set at the 12 o’clock position with centre hour and minute hands. This innovative design, often complemented by vibrant maps in Grand Feu cloisonné enamel or hand-guilloched decorations on the dial, has cemented this complication as one of Patek Philippe’s most distinct models, highly coveted by enthusiasts of intricate horological craftsmanship.
Golden Ellipse Reference 5738/1R-001
This timepiece has all the feels of the 1970s era with the chain bracelet and a bold black dial. The modern interpretation features a supple, brand-new bracelet design that blends comfort with elegance. The links of the chain bracelets are crafted one by one by artisan chainsmiths from gold wire or another metal, and then assembled by hand to create a structure that is remarkably supple.
The revival of the chain bracelet concept with Reference 5738 in rose gold aims to combine elegance, comfort, and innovation without the previous technical limitations in length adjustment. This modern design, comprising 363 parts and over 300 hand-assembled links, allows for easier length adjustments through a modern patented construction. The bracelet’s clasp, featuring an engraved motif matching the bracelet design, offers three adjustment notches for a personalised fit.
The new Golden Ellipse Reference 5738/1R-001 boasts a rose gold case and bracelet set against an ebony-black sunburst dial, providing a perfect backdrop for the baton-style applied hour markers and slender cheveu-style hands, all crafted in rose gold. This timeless, understated aesthetic perfectly reflects the spirit of the Golden Ellipse. Completing the visual harmony of the design is a black onyx cabochon set into the crown.
As the slimmest Patek Philippe watch, it houses a self-winding calibre 240, an ultra-thin movement with an off-centre mini-rotor in 22K gold that allows for a case with an extremely low profile (5.9mm), making the Golden Ellipse Reference 5738 the slimmest watch in the Patek Philippe regular collection.
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The shape of the timepiece suggests the merging of a circle and a rectangle in proportions inspired by the ancient golden section, establishing the Golden Ellipse as a style symbol within Patek Philippe’s lineup. Its distinctive elliptical shape, based on the golden ratio, a mathematical ratio of 1:1.618, is believed to result in a visually pleasing and harmonious design.
Originally launched in 1968 with a yellow gold case and blue gold dial, the watch has evolved through different iterations, including variations with leather straps and various chain bracelet styles such as the milanais-style bracelet of Reference 3548 (1968) and the polonais-style bracelet of Reference 3605 (1974), alongside other distinct link bracelet designs. In 2018, to celebrate the watch’s 40th anniversary, a large platinum model was introduced, followed by a rose gold variant with an ebony-black sunburst dial.
Other noteworthy pieces in this year’s collection
Nautilus 5980/60G-001
The blue-grey hue, present in the World Time Reference 5330G-001, reappears in the Nautilus self-winding flyback chronograph in white gold. Chronograph indications are grouped in an original and legible large 6 o’clock monocounter with three concentric scales. The central chronograph seconds hand can also serve as a running seconds display. The case and bezel are distinguished by contrasting polished and satin finishes.
Aquanaut Travel Time Reference 5164
Another timepiece featuring the striking opaline blue-grey shade on the dial, this watch is designed with travellers in mind. It embodies a blend of contemporary, elegant, and chic aesthetics. The iconic Aquanaut pattern is evident, and the integrated composite strap, matching the dial colour, includes a patented white gold fold-over clasp. The watch houses the self-winding 26-330 S C FUS calibre with Travel Time display, offering excellent legibility combined with user-friendliness.
Twenty~4 ladies 4910/1201R-010
As the Twenty~4 ladies’ collection celebrates its 25th anniversary, Patek Philippe unveils a new iteration of the quartz cuff-style model, showcasing a highly refined dial. The dial plate is embossed with a concentric wave motif, then coated with multiple layers of purple and translucent lacquer to create a visually stunning depth effect.
The unique shape of the rectangular two-tier case is accentuated by two rows of 17 brilliant-cut diamonds (0.63 ct) on each side of the dial. The curved, entirely polished rose gold bracelet comes equipped with a rose gold fold-over clasp, ensuring both comfort and security.
