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Grand Seiko’s Heritage Collection introduces the new 44GS models and the Tentagraph

Audrey Simon
Audrey Simon • 4 min read
Grand Seiko’s Heritage Collection introduces the new 44GS models and the Tentagraph
Grand Seiko’s Heritage Collection introduces the new 44GS models, and the Tentagraph
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Grand Seiko’s Heritage Collection introduces the latest additions to its lineup: the new 44GS models, along with the remarkable Tentagraph timepiece, which joins the sports watch collection

For watch aficionados, the Heritage Collection 44GS Hi-Beat 36000 Ever-Brilliant Steel “Mt Iwate” (SBGH299 and SBGH301) is one they have been eagerly anticipating. It includes well-known references equipped with cases and bracelets made from Grand Seiko’s Ever-Brilliant Steel, a proprietary alloy known for its radiant white hue that immediately catches the eye when finished to Grand Seiko’s exacting standards.

The collection becomes even more captivating when combined with Grand Seiko’s signature 44GS case. Its multi-dimensional structure highlights both the high-end finishing and the lustre of the new case material. The hairline-finished surfaces of the case are particularly noteworthy, as they appear noticeably whiter in comparison.

The duo share many similarities:

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Both watches have a diameter of 40mm, a thickness of 13.3mm, and a length of 46.2mm from one lug end to the other.

The cases are accompanied by a five-link bracelet with a lug width of 19mm.

Both models are rated for water resistance up to 10 bars.

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They feature a dual curve sapphire crystal that rests on the dial.

A sapphire crystal is used for the caseback, providing a movement view.

Both have dials showcasing the Mt Iwate pattern, which draws inspiration from the distinct ridges of the mountain seen from Studio Shizukuishi, where Grand Seiko mechanical watches are crafted.

Powering both watches is the Hi-Beat 36000 Caliber 9S85. Running at 36,000 bph, Caliber 9S85 has a 55-hour power reserve and an accuracy rating of +5/−3 seconds daily. With a faster oscillating balance, a “Hi-Beat” movement has greater resilience against external forces like shocks and vibrations, which results in more reliable daily timekeeping.

While the SBGH299 features a silver dial that effectively captures the appearance of a snow-capped mountain, the SBGH301 sports a black dial that skilfully evokes the atmospheric ambience of the mountain during dusk.

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Introducing the Tentagraph

Its name derives from its notable features: Ten (representing 10 beats per second), T (three days), A (automatic), and Graph (from Chronograph). With the introduction of this timepiece, Grand Seiko unveils a new facet in its lineup of sports watches. The watch boasts a novel movement that incorporates the groundbreaking Dual Impulse Escapement. This innovative mechanism indirectly transfers energy to the free-sprung balance wheel through the pallet fork and directly from the escape wheel, showcasing exceptional engineering and performance.

This modern chronograph is equipped with a vertical clutch and a column wheel mechanism, ensuring exceptional accuracy. The vertical clutch allows the chronograph hands to move smoothly and seamlessly, eliminating any potential glitches and improving the overall measurement precision. The column wheel system provides precise control over the chronograph’s operation, further enhancing its functionality. The movement also incorporates a three-pointed hammer, which guarantees that when the reset pusher is pressed, the hands instantaneously return to zero, perfectly synchronised.

The case and bracelet of this timepiece are crafted from high-intensity titanium, a material known for its exceptional durability and scratch resistance. Titanium is approximately 30% lighter than stainless steel. The watch features a manual-winding Spring Drive movement and is housed in a meticulously engraved Platinum 950 case. The design of the silver-coloured dial and case is inspired by the beauty of the forest, specifically the white birch trees found in the eastern part of Shinshu, at the base of the North Yatsugatake Mountains. It pays homage to the region where skilled artisans in Shiojiri handcrafted Grand Seiko watches.

The hour and minute hands, along with each hand-applied diamond-cut marker, are meticulously crafted from 14k white gold. The minute track, lettering, and mark at 6 o’clock are intricately carved into the dial, showcasing meticulous attention to detail. Furthermore, the second hand is tempered to achieve a stunning shade of grey, adding to the overall aesthetic appeal of the timepiece.

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