Grand Seiko cemented its status as a significant figure in watchmaking by making its second appearance at Watches and Wonders. The 2024 lineup showcases a variety of timepieces, catering to a wide range of collectors. Whether it is the Grand Seiko Evolution 9, Grand Seiko Sport or the award-winning Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-force Tourbillon, each piece stands out as a winner in our eyes.
Evolution 9 Collection
Created in the 1960s and 1970s, this watch is given new life through a new hand-wound movement, the Caliber 9SA4. With a few technical changes to the movement, the watch now beats 10 times per second while achieving a power reserve of 80 hours when fully wound, thanks to its highly efficient Dual Impulse Escapement and two barrels.
It is housed in a new dress watch belonging to the Evolution 9 Collection to protect the movement. The design represents a continuation of the Grand Seiko Style, which dates back to the 44GS of 1967. This time, the Evolution 9 Style itself has been further refined to create a watch that instantly communicates the charm, elegance, grace and subtlety one would expect of a hand-wound dress watch.
Though the new Caliber 9SA4 shares many characteristics with 9SA5, nearly 40% of the base movement has been redesigned and reconstructed carefully considering the tactile, aural and visual sensations experienced during winding. The movement’s click and the click spring have been tailored to perfect their feel and sound, ensuring the crown stops when the movement is fully powered.
Drawing from nature, the movement’s click is like a wagtail bird, especially in Morioka, where Grand Seiko watches are crafted. This bird-like pecking motion of the click is visible through the sapphire crystal case back during hand-winding, adding a touch of nature to the watch.
The Brilliant Hard Titanium case and clasp add to the watch’s allure. The brighter alloy enhances the Zaratsu-polished surfaces, giving a radiant appearance and a sparkle of quality, befitting a Grand Seiko watch. This titanium is light and highly resistant to corrosion and scratches, with a hardness double that of standard stainless steel.
A case and clasp of 18k rose gold is available in the Evolution 9 Collection as a limited-edition option. This version shares the same dial colour and pattern as the Brilliant Hard Titanium but includes a star mark signifying gold-crafted hour markers. The elegant design and subtle nature-inspired dial offer a refined experience of the passage of time.
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Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-force Tourbillon
Last year, Grand Seiko solidified its position in the world of horology by winning the prestigious Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève, often referred to as the watch industry’s equivalent of the Oscars. The Japanese brand competed against 15 other timepieces and emerged as the winner chosen by a jury of 30, who awarded the Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-force Tourbillon the Chronometry Prize.
To understand the Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-force Tourbillon, one must reflect on 2020 when the timepiece existed as a concept movement with a constant-force mechanism and a tourbillon combined on a single axis.
Since then, a dedicated team worked on bringing this concept to life. Designers, engineers, and craftsmen meticulously crafted the 340-calibre components, creating Caliber 9ST1, which was downsized from its original form. Despite being smaller, precision is achieved, as it remains stable for extended periods due to the constant-force mechanism.
Furthermore, the Caliber 9ST1 sets a new standard of accuracy, validated through a series of rigorous testing processes. Each movement undergoes a comprehensive 48-hour evaluation in six different positions and at three temperatures — twice as long as the normal Grand Seiko standard. The performance characteristics are detailed in an individual certificate accompanying every watch upon meeting or exceeding the set standards.
The movement comprises around 340 components, of which over 100 are integrated into the “heart” of the movement — the constant-force carriage and the tourbillon carriage, which measure about 10mm in diameter. A single red ruby is positioned on the constant-force carriage, serving as a seconds indicator.
Once completed, Grand Seiko named the watch Kodo, which means “heartbeat” in Japanese. The name derives from the synchronised motion of the two mechanisms and the rhythmic sound they produce.
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Finally, the components undergo meticulous hand-finishing using various techniques to ensure a radiant appearance. The case consists of Platinum 950 and Grand Seiko’s Brilliant Hard Titanium, guaranteeing lasting beauty and durability.
At this year’s Watches and Wonders event, a new timepiece debuts in a colour scheme representing daybreak. Movement components draped in a silver tone interpret this theme, enhancing the intricate construction and layering of parts in the new Kodo model. Carefully selected pale blue sapphires symbolise the beauty of dawn.
The watch’s mesmerising inner workings are visible through an open-work design that showcases the hand-finished movement and reflects the important Japanese cultural value of utilising empty space. The lugs harmonise with the case, contributing to the design’s lightness.
The new timepiece maintains the hallmark design with the integrated mechanisms’ visual and auditory effects. The rhythmic alignment of the inner tourbillon carriage and the outer constant-force carriage results in a captivating spectacle that resonates visually and audibly.
In line with the daybreak theme, the timepiece comes fitted with a specially treated white leather strap, reminiscent of traditional samurai armour, developed specifically for the new Kodo watch. The strap undergoes a meticulous process, tanned with natural materials and coated with layers of white urushi lacquer to create a lustrous finish and unique texture. White urushi lacquer, derived from the Urushi tree sap commonly found in Japan, is highly valued for its durability, beauty and glossy finish. Alternatively, collectors can opt for a charcoal grey crocodile strap.
Spring Drive Chronograph GMT
This year marks the 20th anniversary of the inaugural Grand Seiko watch featuring the groundbreaking 9R Spring Drive movement series. The Spring Drive Chronograph GMT has been introduced to commemorate this milestone, drawing inspiration from the surrounding nature.
The Hotaka mountain range, located in the Shinshu region of central Japan, serves as the backdrop where all Grand Seiko Spring Drive timepieces are meticulously crafted. At daybreak, the sun’s rays cascade over the towering peaks, creating a breathtaking display of colours shifting from pink to orange as the morning progresses.
This celebration begins with the dial-processing technology that captures the essence of Japan’s deep respect for the passage of time. During the enchanting 30-minute window surrounding sunrise on summer mornings, the sunlight bathes the Hotaka mountain peaks in a unique radiance.
The dial’s colour transitions, reflecting this interplay of light, are achieved through the patented “Optical Multilayer Coating” process. This innovative technique, involving physical vapour deposition, generates nanoscale film layers that interact with light, producing a range of hues depending on the viewing angle.
The latest Spring Drive Chronograph GMT showcases a bold, angular case design inspired by the lion, an enduring symbol of the Grand Seiko legacy since its establishment in 1960. Representing strength and courage, the lion embodies the original Grand Seiko team’s pursuit of crafting the ultimate timepiece.
Every element of the new watch, from the crisp lines of the case to the claw-like, hairline-finished lugs, embodies the lion’s spirit and essence, creating a striking contrast against the sleek Zaratsu-polished surfaces. Zaratsu polishing is a traditional Japanese watchmaking technique that delivers a high-quality, distortion-free mirror finish on metal surfaces.
Engineered for peak performance akin to athletes, this watch boasts water resistance of 20 bar. The hour and minute hands are designed for optimal visibility, while the broad indexes further enhance the outstanding legibility synonymous with Grand Seiko. Crafted from high-intensity titanium, known for being approximately 30% lighter than stainless steel and possessing a brighter hue, the case and bracelet are meticulously constructed.
The bracelet, tailored for comfort, features thick, H-shaped links that conform effortlessly to wrists of all sizes. Lumibrite-coated hour and minute hands, accompanied by hour markers glowing in green and the blue luminescence of the GMT hand and bezel numbers, ensure exceptional legibility in low-light conditions.
