In the world of timepieces, familiarity can be both a blessing and a curse. Heritage and history, of course, are an integral part of horology, keeping the craft alive even as we advance further in an electronics-obsessed world. At the same time, relying too much on storied house codes and motifs runs the risk of appearing stagnant and obstinate.
For watchmakers, the growing challenge lies in finding that delicate balance between honouring the past and adapting to the present. At this year’s Watches and Wonders, TAG Heuer unveiled four novelties — including three new versions of the ever-popular Carrera — that do exactly that. Borrowing from over 150 years of watchmaking experience, the new releases draw from the past with an eye on the future.
Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph
At the time of its launch in 1969, the Monaco was the first water-resistant square chronograph. The model is instantly recognisable for its edgy design with a square dial and left-side crown. Fifty-five years after the Monaco’s debut, TAG Heuer has launched the Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph, an homage to the original model with subtle updates throughout.
The 41mm watch is presented in two colourways: blue (reference CBW2182.FC8339), invoking the original Monaco; and red (reference CBW2181.FC8322), a nod to the brand’s racing heritage. Those punchy tones, grounded by dark grey and black, make the watch elegant yet sporty, a vibe emphasised by the tonally matched fabric strap.
The split-seconds function is certainly not new to TAG Heuer — the brand cut its teeth on the racetrack and even the Olympics with its rattrapante chronographs in the 1900s, with stopwatches such as the Mikrograph and Microsplit. The new Monaco, however, marks the first time TAG Heuer has included the function in a wristwatch.
The Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph is powered by the calibre TH81-00, a column-wheel-equipped 5Hz movement developed in collaboration with Vaucher.
Visible through the sapphire case back, the movement is chock-full of details that can make even the back of the watch a refreshing sight every time. The oscillating weight, for instance, echoes TAG Heuer’s iconic logo, and features an ombre painted stripe. On the bridge, meanwhile, a checkerboard pattern is reminiscent of racing flags.
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Imbuing a sense of modernity to the numerous vintage references, the Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph has a titanium build, for an incredibly light piece that wears comfortably on the wrist. On the front of the watch, Super-LumiNova ensures high legibility even in darkness.
Carrera Chronograph
The Carrera was first introduced in 1963, inspired by the world of cars and the Carrera Panamericana rally from which it gets its name. The latest addition to the main line is a monochrome bi-compax iteration, an homage to the Heuer 7753 SN (the suffix, “SN”, stands for “silver noir”, referring to the colour scheme).
Two black sub-dials — a 30-minute counter and a 12-hour counter — are placed at 3 o’clock and 9 o’clock, respectively. A borderless small-seconds display and date window, both at 6 o’clock, keep the face symmetrical.
Upholding the Carrera line’s renowned legibility, red accents on the sub-hands, main minute hand and minute markers provide contrast, at the same time breaking up the otherwise fully monochrome look for greater visual interest. And in a first for the Carrera lineup’s glassbox models, the new “panda” watch comes with a brushed steel bracelet.
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Carrera Chronograph Skipper in 18K 5N rose gold
The Carrera Chronograph Skipper was first released in 2023, in steel, to mark the 60th anniversary of the Carrera line. Now, a new version in 18K 5N rose gold has been unveiled, adding a subtle elegance to this racing-inspired timepiece.
For long-time watch enthusiasts and sailing nerds, the name of the watch might ring a bell — a Skipper chronograph was introduced in the 1960s, inspired by yachting and regatta races.
Similar to the steel edition, the new Carrera Chronograph Skipper is powered by the calibre TH20-06, a variation of the TH20-00 used in the popular Carrera “Glassbox”, with the 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock replaced with a 15-minute version. That 15-minute counter comes in clutch for timing regatta races, allowing racers to prepare and position themselves as the seconds tick down before the event begins.
The Carrera Chronograph Skipper’s unique colours — a blue dial, with a teal 12-hour counter and the multicoloured 15-minute counter — are reminiscent of the original Skipper “Skipperera” watch from 1968. The poeticism here shouldn’t be missed; after all, “Skipperera” is a portmanteau of “Skipper” and “Carrera”.
To match the new rose gold case, the blue textile strap’s pin buckle is also rendered in 18K 5N rose gold. And keeping in line with its maritime inspirations, the 39mm watch is water-resistant for 100 metres.
Carrera Date 36mm
The 36mm edition of TAG Heuer’s Carrera Date was introduced in 2023, with petite pieces in four colours nodding to the original 1963 Carrera designed by Jack Heuer.
Now, three more — with a decidedly more refined luxe feel — have been released. Like the Carrera Chronograph Skipper, a healthy dose of 18K 5N rose gold has been added to the Carrera Date.
The most blinged-out release here is the reference WBN2351.BD0000, with a mother-of-pearl dial, pavé diamonds on the bezel, diamonds on the hour markers, and a two-tone bracelet with both steel and rose gold.
There is also a slightly pared down iteration sans diamond hour markers, and a steel bracelet (reference WBN231C.BA0001) and another that eschews the mother-of-pearl and diamonds altogether (reference WBN2350.BD0000). All three versions run on the TAG Heuer Calibre 7 introduced with last year’s Carrera Dates, which means they have a 56-hour power reserve.
