Bell & Ross continues to enhance its expanding collection of timepieces dedicated to both craftsmanship and functionality
From a friendship that began in 1994, childhood friends Carlos-Antonio Rosillo and Bruno Belamich created Bell & Ross, now one of the world’s most distinguished timepiece brands. At Watches and Wonders Geneva in April — one of the largest watch events in the world, where watch brands launch their new collections — Bell & Ross presented its novelties for the year. Five novelties were launched this year that showcased the brand’s passion for military heritage and creative design. Here, Options explores the two new BR 05 models that were launched.
Meant for urban explorers, the BR 05’s integrated design, optimal dimensions, comfortable style and carefully executed finishes perfectly suit city life. Bell & Ross extended its BR 05 urban range this year by introducing ceramic, a technical material that remains true to the brand’s legendary black colour. Ceramic is also a robust material that is resistant to corrosion and scratches, guaranteeing the resilience of the watches.
The brand also introduced the luxurious BR 05 Artline Steel & Gold, fashioned in two-tone steel and 18-carat rose gold, giving the watch an overall luxe finish.
Black is back
The use of ceramic in watchmaking is not new, but Bell & Ross has elevated the material’s prestige by blending it with their signature colour, black, invoking the intense and robust environment of aircraft cockpits in the new BR 05 Black Ceramic. This choice reflects the brand’s consistent inspiration drawn from aviation instruments.
Creating the BR 05 Black Ceramic models was no small feat due to the complex sintering process required to perfect the ceramic’s robustness. This process involves vitrifying zirconium oxide powder and polymer binders at extremely high temperatures, around 1450°C. The brand’s meticulousness in mastering this technique ensures that each watch is aesthetically pleasing and exceptionally durable.
The ceramic material in these watches is scratch-resistant, lighter than steel and hypoallergenic, making it extremely comfortable for continuous wear. It adapts quickly to body temperature and maintains a sleek, soft feel on the skin.
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The new collection includes three models, each boasting unique design elements:
- BR 05 Black Ceramic features a polished satin finish and a black sunburst dial, complemented by rhodium-plated, skeletonised hands with white luminescent tips;
- BR 05 Skeleton Black Ceramic that is distinguished by its tinted transparent dial, showcasing the mechanical intricacies of the BR-CAL.322-1 movement through a black ruthenium finish; and
- BR 05 Skeleton Black Lum Ceramic, a limited edition model of just 500 pieces featuring a matte black sandblasted ceramic case and bracelet, as well as a dial crafted from black smoked sapphire crystal and luminescent rhodium-plated hands.
In an innovative design choice, Belamich, who is the creative director at Bell & Ross, has slightly increased the diameter of the new models to 41mm to not only compensate for the visual absorption of light by the black colour but also to enhance the watch’s presence and aesthetic appeal.
All that glitters is gold
Renowned for blending aviation essence with horological craftsmanship, Bell & Ross also unveiled the BR 05 Artline Steel and Gold. This limited edition timepiece, with only 99 pieces available, is heavily inspired by the Art Deco movement of the 1930s, particularly the American Streamline style that epitomises a seamless fusion of form, materials, and technical expertise.
The Artline series within the BR 05 urban collection pays homage to the pioneers of the Streamline movement, such as Raymond Loewy, who brought modern, aerodynamic aesthetics to everyday objects. These influences are evident in the watch’s design, which incorporates sleek, flowing lines and refined colour combinations reminiscent of the era’s trains, aircraft and automobiles.
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The new BR 05 Artline Steel and Gold stand out with its bold combination of steel and 18-carat rose gold, a pairing that was particularly popular in the US during the 1970s and 1980s and is experiencing a resurgence in contemporary watchmaking. Bell & Ross has crafted this timepiece to balance strength and refinement without leaning towards nostalgia. Belamich notes that integrating these materials enhances the watch’s elegance and makes the luxury item more accessible.
The watch features a fluted bezel and central links on the bracelet, a high-end ornamentation that evokes the sturdiness of 1940s aluminium aircraft fuselages. This detailing makes the BR 05 Artline distinctive, bridging Bell & Ross’ aeronautical roots with modern design. The large numerals typical of the brand’s watches are replaced by baton indices coated with luminescent material, enhancing visibility and elegance.
The BR 05 Artline Steel and Gold dial is a bright sunlit brown, achieved through a specialised process where a metal plate is coated with a tinted brown varnish. This unique colour complements the gold second-hand and indices, offering a striking aesthetic. The Swiss-made BR-CAL.321-1 self-winding movement powers the watch, which promises a power reserve of 54 hours. A sapphire case back allows wearers to admire the intricate movement and the oscillating weight.
