We feature two timepieces that are special in their own way: the Portugieser Eternal Calendar which is a timekeeping innovation, while Panerai continues its homage to sailing with the Submersible Luna Rossa PAM01565.
IWC Schaffhausen
It is not perpetual. It is eternal. Is that even possible? Meet the Portugieser Eternal Calendar, a technical marvel. Firstly, the Portugieser Perpetual Calendar is programmed for a four-year cycle, but this timepiece features an eternal calendar designed to accurately account for leap years through an ingenious additional module. This module, comprising just eight parts, completes a single revolution every four centuries and is programmed to skip three leap years in that period due to its genius design.
This watch is powered by the newly-developed IWC-manufacture 52640 calibre that incorporates a highly-efficient Pellaton winding system which, using rotor movements in both directions, reliably builds up a power reserve of seven days (168 hours) across two barrels. The winding system components, prone to high stresses, are crafted from durable zirconium oxide ceramic. The movement’s exceptional finishing, featuring circular graining and Geneva stripes, is visible through the box-shaped sapphire glass case-back.
Another feature that sets the Portugieser Eternal Calendar apart is its moon phase complication. Displaying the moon phase did not follow a simple daily rhythm due to the moon’s irregular orbit of 29 days, 12 hours, 44 minutes and 2.88 seconds. To achieve high accuracy, IWC engineered a new reduction gear train using three intermediate wheels. The gear train ensures the display deviates from the actual moon orbit only by one day every 45 million years, effectively simulating the lunar cycle as closely as possible.
The moon phase itself is showcased using a Double Moon indication on the dial, which reflects the lunar phase as seen from both the Northern and Southern hemispheres. This display has two superimposed discs: a celestial disc with two small circular openings that rotates above an immobile lower disc embellished with a Guilloché pattern on titanium. The impression created is of two moons waxing or waning.
Aesthetically, the watch features a platinum case with polished and brushed surfaces, which is complemented by a black alligator leather strap by Italian leather artisan Santoni, with a platinum folding clasp. The glass dial undergoes a complex manufacturing process — frosted on the underside and lacquered in white, with separate machined and polished subdials affixed onto it.
The numerals and characteristic Portugieser minute scale are printed on a white lacquered flange, giving the texts and appliques an illusion like it is floating under the box-glass sapphire crystal, machined and polished painstakingly.
This blend of traditional aesthetics, modern technology and innovative craftsmanship in the Portugieser Eternal Calendar not only marks a significant achievement for IWC, but also sets a new standard in luxury watchmaking.
See also: Ipah Uid Lynn: The first Asian to win Oceanographic Magazine's Female Fifty Fathoms Award
Panerai
Panerai continues its homage to sailing with the launch of an e-commerce exclusive, the Submersible Luna Rossa PAM01565 which is limited to 300 pieces. This time-telling treasure comes in a 42mm brushed steel case, a unidirectional rotating steel bezel with a black matt ceramic disk. This is chosen for its notably higher resistance to scratches, essential for withstanding the shocks or hard knocks.
With water resistance of up to 30 bar (approximately 300m), each watch undergoes rigorous testing, facing pressures 25% greater than its guaranteed resistance, which ensures it adheres to Panerai’s stringent durability standards.
Powering the Submersible Luna Rossa is the automatic P.900 movement, recognised for its reliability and a power reserve of three days. This slim automatic calibre measures just 4.2mm in thickness, giving it a streamlined profile without compromising functionality. The movement features a bidirectional oscillating weight, a balance wheel fixed in place by a balance cock, and a stop-second function that enables precise time-setting.
The dial of the watch is reminiscent of the ocean with its blue sun-brushed face and a black gradient finish, adorned with the Luna Rossa decal. It is equipped with luminous dot and baton hour-markers for enhanced visibility, and includes a date window at 3 o’clock and a small seconds sub-dial at 9 o’clock. The hands are treated with Super-LumiNova, ensuring legibility even in poor lighting conditions.
Panerai also offers a customisable wearing experience with its innovative interchangeability system. The watch comes with two straps: the first, a bi-material strap in grey with dynamic red accents reflecting Luna Rossa’s colours; and the second, a subdued dark blue rubber strap.
This launch is part of Panerai’s continued partnership with the America’s Cup, initiated in 2017 as an official partner and continuing with its sponsorship of prestigious teams like Oracle Team USA and Softbank Team Japan. By 2019, Panerai became the official sponsor of Luna Rossa Prada Pirelli, further cementing its commitment during the 36th America’s Cup presented by Prada in 2021 in Auckland’s Hauraki Gulf.
