If you are a ski fanatic, chances are you’ve heard of a little mountain village in the Urseren Valley of the Swiss Alps called Andermatt, which offers 180km of pistes, as well as modern ski resort SkiArena for the ultimate snow-filled escapade. But the true charm of this historical place really comes alive in the summer, when the slopes turn a bright shade of green dotted with colourful flowers and farm animals come out of hibernation to frolic in the rolling meadows.
People who have visited this quaint town (population 1,500 and up) are often fascinated by the rugged beauty of the mountain scenery. Many visitors return time after time to enjoy its rustic charm, while others decide to settle there. Queen Victoria has stayed here, Sean Connery has filmed here (as James Bond for 1964’s Goldfinger), and poet Johann Wolfgang von Goethe once declared this place as “the dearest and most interesting”.
Situated over 1,400m above sea level, close to the Saint Gotthard Massif, Andermatt straddles the north-south and east-west mountain passes of Switzerland. Surrounded by four main rivers — Rhine, Rhone, Reuss and Ticino — residents enjoy fresh alpine water which they can freely drink from any tap.
Cradled by awe-inspiring peaks and an untouched alpine countryside, it offers rapid access to the heart of Europe and beyond. To the north, you have Zurich; go west and you will reach Lucerne for an exciting day of sightseeing. Venture south, and it is a mere train ride to Italy’s shopping capital of Milan.
From trading post to holiday destination
Because of its well-connected location, Andermatt served as a trading post to its first settlers 500 years ago. When Napoleon Bonaparte came with his troops in 1799 to defend the territory against the Russians, the town was transformed into a military base, and up until recently, has been a garrison town for the Swiss Federal Army.
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Business for the community was robust, thanks to the army, which eventually led to a tourism boost with the construction of the Grand Hotel Bellevue as well as the introduction of ski lifts at Nätschen-Gütsch in 1937. Around the end of the Cold War in 1990, the military decided to pull out and Andermatt was left to pick up the pieces.
For over a decade, the community fell on hard times and struggled to find ways to create an economy of their own, without much luck, until the early 2000s when a billionaire Egyptian developer by the name of Samih Sawiris locked eyes with the alpine beauty.
Even back then, when Andermatt was a very small medieval village of mismatched houses, mom-and-pop shops, quaint restaurants and simple chalets, Sawiris (formerly CEO of Orascom Development Holding) saw the potential for this rustic valley to grow into a world-class holiday destination and residential estate.
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After two long years of negotiations, he received a 96% majority vote from the residents to go ahead with his proposed zoning plan to gentrify the area and build a new wing to the investment tune of CHF1.29 billion ($1.8 billion).
The first phase of development has seen the completion of new ski lifts and additional pistes, over 10 apartment buildings, an award-winning golf course, public indoor pool, convention centre and two hotels — The Chedi Andermatt and Radisson Blu Hotel Reussen, which is also home to Andermatt’s state-of-the-art classical concert hall. Adjacent to the old town and separated by a train track, the new town, called Andermatt Reuss, is a mixed-use development (almost like an integrated resort) tailor-made for both foreigners and locals seeking a holiday home in the Alps. This is supposedly the only development in all of Switzerland where foreigners are allowed to purchase property.
The car-free zone is a well-balanced mix of meticulously planned and designed residential apartment buildings and chalets as well as four and five-star hotels, retail and leisure facilities. More than 90% of the apartments in the first 10 completed buildings have been sold, but more are sprouting up, each with uniquely different architecture. Should you be keen to invest in a unit here, prices start from CHF975,000, with the option to join a rental programme to enjoy some passive income. All property sales and rental-related services are provided by the team at Andermatt Swiss Alps (ASA).
Sustainability is a strong focus for this township, where the apartments and buildings are built in accordance to the Minergie standard, a recognised Swiss benchmark for sustainability. Electricity and heat are generated by renewable energy sources, and the town operates four of its own hydroelectric power stations, as well as four wind turbines on top of Mt Gütsch.
Marrying old and new
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Existing in perfect harmony, both towns offer unique experiences for tourists and residents alike. Locals can walk over to Andermatt Reuss and enjoy luxurious indulgences like bespoke cocktails, elegant dining, concertos and spa pampering at the Radisson. Out-of-towners can venture to the old town for a scenic stroll along its cobblestone streets which can easily be covered in under an hour, with plenty of time to see main attractions like the Talmuseum Urseren museum, the Catholic church of St Peter and Paul, and traditional homes that beautifully blend stone and wood.
One thing I found quite interesting — and something the guide books do not tell you — is that retailers are extremely trusting. They will leave their merchandise out in the open, unattended, with just a price list and box for you to drop your money in. There is even a mini fridge — in the middle of nowhere — filled with fresh cheese, yoghurt and jams waiting to be purchased. In any other place, the money box and the fridge are likely to disappear in minutes. But it seems in Andermatt, honour and integrity are taken quite seriously.
The residents here — and there are very few — are rarely exuberant but always warm and willing to help when you ask. Should you have any need for day tours, bike rentals, transport tips or accommodation enquiries, simply visit the ASA management office (next to The Chedi) or the customer service centre in the train station.
The pinnacle of Michelin dining
For gourmands, Andermatt is home to two mountain-top Michelin-starred restaurants located 2,300m above sea level right beside Gütsch Express mountain station and accessible only by ski lift. Coincidentally, both restaurants, which opened in late 2019, received their first stars simultaneously in 2021.
Believed to be the world’s highest award-winning Japanese restaurant, The Japanese by The Chedi Andermatt serves everything from shidashi bentos to omakase kaiseki, plus a wide array of sushi and sashimi. The 89-seater restaurant is overseen by executive chef Dietmar Sawyere, who also holds a Michelin star for his other Japanese outlet located within The Chedi itself.
Just a hop-skip away is 211-seater Gütsch by Markus Neff, 2007 Chef of the Year as voted by Gault-Millau Switzerland. The Austrian culinary veteran, together with his small but loyal team, runs the beautiful space that offers both indoor and outdoor seating to enjoy breathtaking views of Gotthard’s mountain panorama.
Don’t come expecting starchy linens and elegant tableware at Gütsch — that’s not Neff’s style. The interior here is unapologetically casual alpine chic, so feel free to come dressed in your athleisure best. The contemporary European ala carte menu is free of frills and showmanship, but prepared with passion and respect for the best local produce that showcase the seasons.
If you crave Asian food, you must visit The Restaurant at The Chedi which has four open studio kitchens, one of which has an Asian team preparing homely favourites like chicken tikka and Thai green curry. In the middle of the dining room, you will also find a 5m-high cheese cellar featuring some of the best Swiss cheeses from the region and beyond.
Par for the course
Another draw of Andermatt in the summer is its multiple award-winning 18-hole par-72 championship golf course which presents a welcome challenge. Here, you have to endure many windy afternoons which really puts your abilities to the test.
In addition, there are 14 fairways located on mostly flat terrain while another four traverse tricky hills and valleys. The reward is the majestic view of the scenic mountain backdrop and Reuss River that runs along the edge of the golf course.
Stretching 6,340m long, the property complements its natural surroundings harmoniously, and that includes golfers having to put up with the perpetual bleating of goats, “dings” of cowbells, and groups of passing hikers. The club’s appointed restaurant, The Swiss House, which overlooks the green, is open to the public.
Andermatt Swiss Alps Golf Course was awarded Switzerland’s Best Golf Course for the fourth time in 2020, after receiving the title from 2016 through to 2018.
Summer adventures
The summits of the Gottard massif rise to more than 3,500m and pose some of the toughest terrains for alpinists. During the summer months and well into autumn, the Urseren Valley is the perfect place for hikers and mountain bikers, while road cyclists hit the winding steep tarmacs along the passes. To my bewilderment and amusement, summer is also the time you will find numerous leather-clad biker gangs (harmless, I am sure) vrooming around the passes for a weekend spin.
For less strenuous adventures, you can take a leisurely walk along the countryside to forage for wild herbs, take pictures with free-roaming cows and goats, spend a day fishing for trout, or rent a car or e-bike and cruise gentler slopes. One of the more memorable activities I did was to rent a van up to a local cheese farm on Alp Galenstock to discover how alpine cheese is made.
Life in Andermatt is slow but colourful, to say the least. Unlike bigger cities, it is void of big retail stores and fast food chains. Everything here is about pride and provenance of its natural resources. Where this place lacks in large-scale tourism and commercialisation, it makes up for in its natural beauty and quiet charm. I can see why a growing number of people are choosing to make this tranquil town their holiday home.
